It looks like there is some kind of collar on one side and a brass socket on the other. Why do you suggest to remove the old ladder? I recently had an inground pool installed. The installer did not make sure the sockets were positioned correctly and now the handrail to the stairs and the rails for the basketball hoop are not straight.
Hi Zak, great question. The answer to your question is that while you are digging them up, cutting out the old anchors, you will locate and expose the bonding wire, usually attached down low, on the rear of the anchor body, and before pouring concrete around your replacement, you will cut and attach the bonding wire to the new anchors.
A brass pigtail is typically used to splice the bonding wire. I would like to dyi an inground concreet surface mount pool ladder. What would be the problem with that type of mounting instead of socket mounts?
Hi Steve, if you use the surface mount anchors, instead of the recessed, flush mount anchors set in concrete, it will be harder to connect the bonding wire, required for inground pools. The bonding wire is meant to pull stray voltage away from the pool, should a leak occur, from the pool light or motor.
But, if you are not having an inspection, it is your choice as to install the bonding wire or not. Another possible issue is that a winter pool cover may snag or rip if in contact with the raised, surface mount anchor. Surface mount is definitely easier to install than flush mount…. I have an inground vinyl lined pool with a 3 step ladder in the deep end.
The ladder bumpers are too far away from the wall of the pool and caused a tear in the vinyl last season. We bought this house last summer and this is our first time dealing with a pool. Are there bumpers that are thicker and would prevent the ladder from bumping into the wall? Thank you. Hi Julie, yes there are! The Female ladder bumpers seem to stay on a bit better. There are 2 sets of ladders, 2 step and 3 step.
Which ladder is supposed to go in the shallow end and which goes in the deep end? I have a brand new in ground pool with a liner. We have not poured the deck yet, do the cups and channel come in a kit? Also when setting the ladder, does the bottom of the ladder touch the side of the pool, thus rubbing on the liner?
The bottom of the rails do touch the wall, but the ladder bumpers on the bottom of the rail prevent damage to the liner. Female bumpers may be safer to use than male , which can fall off the ladder rail more easily.
Good Afternoon, I have an inground pool with built in steps, the ladder handrails and the 3 bend step handrail are removed every winter when closing pool.
But, I have had different pool companies over the years say the handrail holes should be plugged to keep water from collecting and freezing which could damage the cement pad. While others say leave them open, should i put plugs in to keep water out?
Many have holes in the bottom to drain into the soil, but if they do not, the brass metal, encased in concrete is tough enough. Expanding ice will simply expand upward. I have never heard of plugging these before, or heard of any damage from not doing so….
I have a in the wall pool ladder. The hand rails are set in concrete. The concrete around the rail is coming up on both sides. I tried repairing it by scraping the cement down and then putting new cement around it, but the new cement around the rails bubbled up.
Any suggestions as to how to fix this. Need a grinder with a masonry wheel, to cut around the socket on all four sides, remove completely and set into a new concrete pad, with rebar pieces pegged into holes drilled into the sides of the existing concrete. Big job! But the only way to really fix wobbly hand rails or loose ladder sockets.
Thank you for a quick response. Although the ladder is not wobbly at all. I did cut out the bad cement and replaced it but it did the same thing. That would probably be a bad mix of concrete, or overworked concrete too much troweling , or most likely it is just too thin. You may need to chip down to a deeper depth, or use a concrete patch that is meant for shallow depth repairs.
Hi John, great question! A third way is to cut a channel into the deck, behind the rail, where you can run the bare 8 copper wire bonding wire out of the end of the deck, and run it back to the equipment pad, where you can join up with the bonding wire, via pigtail connector.
I have stainless steel inground pool rails that are on the surface not in the pool , and I live in a cold climate area Pennsylvania. Does it need to be removed for the winter? Hi Juan, good question, thanks! No, if you have in-the-wall steps, and handrails on the deck, you can leave the handrails in place during winter. Especially with the angled type of anchor, I understand, they are difficult to remove.
The only problem is the extra weathering on the rails, and if that bothers you, the rails can be polished and waxed for shine and protection. Installing a new pool and debating on whether to install the ladder in the deep end or not? As such, if you have access to your pool ladder's instruction manual, make sure to read it thoroughly. For most pool ladders, the first step is cleaning out the ladder cups on your pool deck. Use a power washer or the high-power setting on your hose to clean out any debris.
Be sure that the ladder bumpers the rubber covers for the part of the ladder that adheres to the pool liner are entirely intact and have been attached securely. If not, then the ladder might cause a tear in your liner, which could cost thousands of dollars to replace. If you have two people, one should be in the water to guide the ladder bumpers and rails, with the second person inserting the rails into the cups. If not, it may be easiest to insert the rails into the cups loosely and then place the bumpers.
Once everything is in place, tighten the ladder wedges using the socket wrench. Ideally, your assistant should hold the bottom of the rails and bumpers in place while you do so.
If you are unsure about how to proceed, it's recommended that you speak with a pool technician to verify you are doing the installation correctly. To add sand to the ladder, flip the ladder upside down, remove the base of the bottom of the legs, and use a funnel to sift sand into each leg.
You need a lot of sand to fill the ladder to ensure that the ladder remains sturdy. Stainless steel in-pool ladders offer height flexibility, have steps that contain deep treads, conform to fit the shape of your pool floor, and are a go-to for pool owners who have a deck.
As a result, stainless steel in-pool ladders are extremely sturdy, sleek, and easy to clean. Once you assemble your stainless steel in-pool ladder, set it in the desired position relative to the deck and ensure that the base step rests flat on the pool floor. Make a note of where the top rails reach the deck and mark a spot on the handrail with a pencil.
Using deck flanges these will often come with the ladder , secure the handrails to the deck and tighten the screws in the flanges.
The easy pool step ladder is a no-brainer for pool owners whose primary concern is safety. If you have a child, a senior, someone with a disability, or a clumsy friend in your pool, prioritize safety above all else in ladder selection and installation. This ladder offers wide and slip-resistant steps to enter or exit the pool, as well as handrails on each side for assistance. Similar to a frame flip-up pool ladder, you need to fill the ladder with tons of sand. To pour the sand in, place the ladder in the desired position, move it left to right to ensure that air bubbles escape and water enters the steps, and pour sand into the side panel on the top step using a funnel.
Next, secure the ladder to the deck using mounting brackets. Slide the mounting brackets over the handrails, adjusting its height to be even with the deck.
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